“American Fiction,” a film that ignites conversation about the diversity discourse in the literary world, stands out not just for its narrative prowess but also for its meticulous attention to costume design. This Amazon and Orion Pictures project, rooted in Percival Everett’s novel “Erasure,” offers a lens into the life of Thelonious “Monk” Ellison, portrayed with depth and nuance by Jeffrey Wright. As Monk navigates through personal loss and a quest for authenticity in his creative expression, his journey is visually punctuated by the thoughtful costume design by Rudy Mance, which adds layers to his character and the story’s overarching themes.
Monk’s wardrobe is a testament to his internal conflict and societal expectations. Dressed predominantly in pristine white button-ups, tailored suits, and meticulously chosen ties, his attire reflects a conscious effort to navigate the predominantly white literary and academic worlds with seriousness and professionalism. This choice of clothing, a blend of his upbringing outside of Boston and his father’s professional legacy, acts as a form of armor against the scrutiny and biases of the gatekeepers in his field. Yet, amidst this carefully curated exterior, moments of vulnerability shine through, like the scene where Monk relaxes in a blue house robe, offering a glimpse of the man behind the façade.
Sterling K. Brown’s character, Clifford Ellison, Monk’s brother, mirrors this sartorial narrative. Their shared upbringing in an upwardly mobile middle-class Black family is reflected in their similar dress sense. However, as Clifford navigates his identity and sexuality, his wardrobe evolves, incorporating more expressive pieces like floral shirts, signaling a journey towards self-acceptance and openness.
Issa Rae’s portrayal of Sintara Golden, a millennial author, brings a fresh and expressive style to the narrative. Her natural hair and bold, printed outfits underscore her confidence and willingness to confront and discuss race and diversity in publishing head-on. Sintara’s fashion choices are not just aesthetic but are symbolic of her role as a disruptor and a voice for change.
Coraline, played by Ericka Alexander, adds another layer to the story’s exploration of identity through fashion. Her relaxed, bohemian wardrobe reflects her journey and outlook on life, embodying freedom and a disregard for societal constraints. Her character, like her style, is unapologetic and grounded, contributing to the rich tapestry of voices and perspectives within the film.
“American Fiction” is more than a critique of the publishing industry’s diversity issues; it’s a visual and narrative exploration of identity, resilience, and authenticity. The characters’ wardrobes serve as a narrative device, underscoring their struggles, triumphs, and the complexity of navigating personal and professional worlds. Through Rudy Mance’s visionary costume design, the film achieves a remarkable depth, making each character’s journey not only a story to be heard but also seen, further enriching the cinematic experience. The thoughtful curation of attire in “American Fiction” is a powerful reminder of the role of fashion as an extension of self, offering a nuanced perspective on identity and the masks we wear.